The merino fiber we use is from sheep where mulesing is NOT practicised.
All of our wool is sourced from farms which comply with high animal welfare standards.
These are the yarn bases available at the moment:
100% superwash extrafine merino
400m/437y per 100g
19.5 micron merino wool, softly spun, non-scratchy yarn.
The ideal yarn for accessories. It is fantastic for shawls, scarves, baby items, hats and more!
75% superwash merino, 25% nylon
400m/437y per 100g
27 micron superwash merino wool, combined with nylon for a very durable and springy sock yarn, designed for items that will be worn and washed a lot. Whilst not quite as soft as Goya Merino, this yarn is fantastic for hard wearing socks, gloves and jumpers.
75% merino, 25% Mulberry Silk
225m/246y per 100g
19.5 micron merino wool, softly spun, non-scratchy yarn mixed with Mulberry silk.
The ideal yarn for garments and accessories. It is fantastic for shawls, baby items, hats and more!
72% superkid mohair, 28% Mulberry silk
420m/459y per 50g
This is a super light and airy yarn and can be worked at many different gauges. It produces gossamer-like items when large needles or hooks are used and soft, fluffy items at tigher gauges. It can also be carried with another yarn to add a delicate haze and to produce a surprisingly warm fabric.
90% merino, 10% linen
360m/394y per 100g
A soft single ply merino and linen blend yarn with texture and a gentle tweedy haze. The natural linen gives the yarn a textured finish with subtle drape.
It is ideal for trans-seasonal items such as cowls, shawls and lightweight tops.
How to wash and block?
I recommend that all yarn, even superwash yarn, is washed by hand. This ensures it'll be beautiful for as long as possible and will wear well. When you've finished your project, dunk it in a sink of luke warm water - with a no rinse wool wash if that takes your fancy (we use Eucalan or Soak), leave it to saturate for a while, then roll it up in a towel to squeeze out excess water and pin out flat to dry.
As with all textiles and all yarn, sometimes color can come out. It's frequently found with washing jeans and other denim items, and tends to happen with darker blues and reds. It can be caused by a difference in the water ph used to wash the item, detergents (some are really viscous on dye), or an over-saturation of dye that hasn't quite finished rinsing out.
All of my hand dyed yarn is rinsed by hand in the sink, and each batch is soaked in Eucalan or Soak, then individual skeins are rinsed to make sure no color bleeds. This isn't foolproof though, and occasionally skeins in darker colors can bleed a little. Fortunately it is very rare, but in case it does happen you can do something about it - simply put your yarn or finished item in a pan (that you won't use for food), add water and a generous glug of vinegar or citric acid, and then slowly bring up to heat. It should be simmering but not boiling. Then turn the heat off, put a lid on the pan, and leave it - ideally overnight. You should find that the water is now clear, and all that remains is to rinse your yarn. If the water isn't quite clear, rinse it anyway - much like with hair dye, there can be excess dye which needs to run off.
I heartily recommend that for colorwork projects you make a swatch using all the colors and then wash and block it - not only to check your gauge/tension, but to make sure the colors work well together and any dark colors don't stain the lighter colors. It's rare, but if in doubt it's worth checking.
Skeins can have knots in - it's caused by the mill spinning onto a cone of a certain weight, then into skeins of smaller weights. If they didn't knot or splice the yarn together they'd end up wasting a lot of it. I look out for knots and my rule of thumb is that a skein should not have more than one knot in: I take out any that I spot.
Slubs are bits of fluff in your otherwise smooth yarn. In any yarn made with natural fibers, particularly wool, you can get the occasional bit of fluff - this is not a defect. It's not ideal but it can happen - my yarns are made from natural fibers and although they are spun by a machine, those machines aren't always perfect and the combs can let the odd bit of fluff pass through. If I catch these bits whilst we're processing the yarn I will remove them ourselves but they can sometimes slip through the net - we're human after all. If you do find fluff in your yarn you can remove it by gently teasing it out. That will leave the yarn/knitting/crochet unaffected.
Color online is mostly how your screen reads code. The more pixels a screen has combined with the bit depth reading capabilities, the more color combinations can be displayed. This varies from a device to a device. Although I make sure to photograph my yarns well, all colors on the internet can vary from monitor to monitor due to the nature of different hardware settings.
NOTE: I am unable to offer refunds due to colors not matching what you saw on your monitor as it is completely out of my control, so please contact me by email before purchasing if you need help with a specific hue.
All my yarn is dyed to try and prevent striping or pooling as much as possible. In hand dyed yarn, this creates a random/softer variegated effect that looks amazing in plain stockinette but also works fabulously with more complicated and textural stitch motifs.
Please bear in mind that even though dye lots are available, all dyes are applied by hand in small quantities - therefore no two hanks are exactly the same, even in the same lot. Therefore, it is always advisable to alternate skeins of hand dyed yarn to create even color in larger projects.